The best thing about being retired is the ability to travel. I'm currently in Southern California with my girlfriend Julie visiting family, friends and doing a little surfing. Last week, I paddled out at Imperial Beach. It's a beach break I was very familiar because I lived there for more than 15 years.
Southern California has been getting lots of swell this winter because of the El Nino. The waves that day were a solid 6'. Imperial Beach is a thick heavy wave. Frankly speaking, it can be nasty if you're not ready for it. Well I didn't have trouble getting out, but I struggled to catch them. The ones I did catch were extremely powerful and it humbled me. The next day the surf was 8' and more than I felt up for. The day after that the waves were even bigger.
For me surfing is about having fun. If people want to surf big waves or be in contests good for them. I don't feel the need to prove anything to myself or others. I like to paddle out with friends and share a fun session. Paddling out with friends means someone has my back in case something goes wrong. Building boards is my way of combining my love of surfing with my love of woodworking. It's not about trying to make money. If I sell a board that's fine. My goal is to design and build boards that work at my break.