Thursday, January 18, 2018

Experience matters.

There is one thing you learn as a surfer over time.  You have to spend a lot of time watching for waves.    Where I live the number of days of good waves are few.  You have to watch the conditions closely and maybe it will reward you with something.

There are lots of guys that build wood boards.  There are few guys that ride 'em.  I'm happy to be out surfing and if it's on a wood board.  That's even better.  The water has cooled to the 50's.  Winter is upon us and it's different wearing all the rubber.  It's not going to slow me down.  Keep surfing as long as you can.

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